How To Cut A Window In An Interior Wall

Whether restoring erstwhile houses or building new ones that look one-time, Tom Silva finds finish carpentry the almost satisfying office of the job. For this project, Tom shows yous how to install window trim that has reeded side and caput casings, plain corner blocks, a thick stool, and a dainty apron, all of which he copied from the original trim. "People often put in a casing that's likewise small or a unlike style," Tom says, "but I think it adds to the experience and the value of a home to continue to its original character."

As with all finish carpentry, Tom says, successful installation begins with stable fabric - clear, kiln-stale wood or precast foam - and ends with precise measurements and cuts. The result is a seamless assembly with tight joints and no gaps between wall and casing. "Take your time, and ever measure twice before you cut," says Tom.

Stride i

Trimming Out a Window

When installing window casing in erstwhile houses, Tom often has to contend with walls that dip and bulge, causing gaps between the trim and wall. He tin't ignore these imperfections, merely he doesn't fill them with caulk. Instead, Tom uses woods filler strips. "I like to leave a dainty clean border for the painter," he says.

To brand them, he first rips a bit piece of casing to a width of 1 inch and as long as the casing is high. He sets the legs of a compass to span the largest wall-to-casing gap (equally shown in "Fill in the Gap" 1, far left). He then transfers that distance to the face of the flake wood (as shown in "Fill in the Gap" 2). Next, he places the strip perpendicular to the casing at its outside edge, resets the compass to the altitude betwixt the largest gap and the mark on the scrap, and scribes the profile of the wall onto the fleck piece (as shown in "Fill in the Gap" three). After cutting along that line with a jigsaw, he applies carpenter'south gum to the profiled bit piece and slides it into the gap then wall and trim marry perfectly (every bit shown in "Fill in the Gap" 4). "With a lite sanding and paint, the joint disappears," Tom says.

Step two

Prep the Jambs

Hold a straightedge across the window; check that each jamb is flush with the wall. If they protrude, plane them downwardly to the wall. If the jambs autumn brusk of the wall, measure the largest gap between the straightedge and each jamb. Then, from 1x stock, rip jamb extensions as broad every bit necessary and ¼inch thinner than the jamb thickness. Belongings the strip against the jamb, drive ane ½inch 18-gauge pneumatic nails (or 4d finish nails) every 8 to ten inches. Plane off any excess.

Spread the legs of a compass ¼ inch and residual the bespeak on one of the jamb'south lower inside corners. Using the inside face up of the jamb as a guide, draw a reveal line along the edges of all three jambs.

Tip: For a tight fit between the casing and jamb, plane a slight bevel into the wall-side edge of the jamb.

Footstep 3

Cut and Rabbet the Stool

Place a side casing against the wall, aligned with the reveal line on a side jamb. Marker the wall at the casing's exterior border. Repeat for the opposite jamb. Mensurate betwixt the marks, add 2 inches, and cut the stool to this length.

Identify the stool face downwards on the sill with its dorsum edge confronting the sill trim. Mark where the summit of the trim meets the stool'southward terminate.

Keeping the back corner against the sill trim, slide the end of the upside-downwardly stool confronting the jamb. Make a vertical marking where the end of the stool touches the jamb.

Connect the two marks with a square and make an Ten in the area defined by the lines; this is the waste that volition exist cut out to make the rabbet.

Remove the waste in two separate rip cuts on a table saw.

Pace 4

Notch and Install the Stool

Mark the stool's within edge 1 inch from each end and place it across the opening. Mark where the stool'due south edge meets the inside edge of the jambs. Set up a square at those marks and depict "jamb lines" across the top of the stool. Rout the desired profile into the stool'due south edge and ends.

Align the jamb lines with the jambs' within edges. Set the compass to the distance from the stool'south dorsum edge to the sill trim. Concord the compass point against the wall and scribe lines from each end of the stool to the jamb line.

Post-obit the scribe lines, cut a notch into each end of the stool with a jigsaw. Exam fit the stool; fine-tune it with a jigsaw, chisel, or sandpaper. Apply a bead of glue to the sill.

Facenail the stool to the sill with iv eighteen-approximate nails (or 4d finish nails).

Step v

Install Side Casing

Cut a square end on a slice of casing and stand that terminate on the stool. Mark where its within edge meets the head jamb's reveal line. Brand a square cut at that mark. Echo on the opposite side.

Employ a bead of gum to the casing where it overlaps the side jamb and on the stop that sits on the stool; line upwardly its edge with the reveal line. Facenail the casing into the jamb with 4d finish nails, and to the wall with 8d finish nails. Wipe up squeezed-out glue. Echo the procedure on the other side.

Nail up through the bottom of each horn into the ends of the casing with 2 18-gauge or 6d nails. If paw nailing, drill airplane pilot holes.

Tip: To cutting snug-plumbing fixtures beveled ends, put casing face up on one/8-inch-thick scrap 3 inches from the miter-saw blade.

Pace vi

Add Head Casing

Hold a length of casing beyond the summit of the window and marking where it meets the inside border of each side casing. With a miter saw, make square crosscuts at those marks.

Mucilage the head casing to the head jamb, making sure its bottom edge lines up with the reveal line.

Step 7

Add Corner Blocks

Test fit the corner blocks at both corners to bank check for gaps. Trim the edges of the cake with a airplane as needed to get a tight fit.

Apply a thin bead of gum to those edges of the block that volition join the side and caput casing. And then dab mucilage on the dorsum of the block; put it in place.

If using a pneumatic nailer, drive eighteen-gauge nails into each corner. If manus nailing, drill pilot holes, then bulldoze in 8d finish nails.

Pace 8

Cut and Install the Apron

Hold a length of apron stock face down on the stool. Marker the stock where it meets each side casing's outside edge. At the marks, make square cuts with a miter saw.

To wearing apparel upward the ends of an apron, concur the end of a scrap apron piece perpendicular to the face of the piece just cut. Face the scrap's contour toward the end of the frock and brand the edges flush. Trace the chip'due south contour onto the face of the apron. Repeat on the other end. Cut forth the pencil lines with a jigsaw or coping saw, and sand smooth.

Apply mucilage along the top edge of the frock, marshal its ends with the outside edges of the side casing, and press the tiptop border confronting the bottom of the stool.

Step ix

Finish up the Installation

Recess all smash heads with a nail gear up and hammer, so fill the holes with wood putty. Allow the putty to dry overnight.

Using 120-dust sandpaper, lightly paw-sand the putty affluent with the surrounding wood. And then lightly sand the casings, corner blocks, stool and apron.

Wipe away all sanding dust with a tack rag, then apply a coat of stain and varnish, or primer and paint.

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/windows/21016389/how-to-trim-out-a-window

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